Blocking knitting is the finishing touch on a project – like the icing on a cake. It smooths out the knitted fabric, evens out your gauge, helps the project assume its final shape, and blooms the yarn.
Wet blocking knitting projects doesn’t need to be a mysterious or confusing process. There are many different wet blocking methods out there, and the basics of each method are the same: soak your finished item, squeeze out the water, and lay out the item to dry in the intended shape.
This guide will walk you through each step and maximize the efficiency of squeezing out the water with your washing machine!
- Why Blocking Matters in Knitting
- My Quick & Easy Blocking Method
- Final Thoughts on Blocking Knitting the Easy Way
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Do you need to block after every wash?
- Can Blocking Help an Item Grow or Shrink?
- What Happens if You Don’t Block Your Knitting?
- Can you block knitting in the washing machine?
- Do I have to soak my knitting to block it?
- What yarns can be blocked with the spin cycle?
- Is blocking necessary for superwash wool?
- How long does the drying process Take after using the spin cycle?
Why Blocking Matters in Knitting
Your project isn’t done until it’s blocked. Blocking knitting smooths out the knitted fabric, evens out your gauge, helps the project assume its final shape, and blooms the yarn.
My Quick & Easy Blocking Method
Over the years, I’ve refined my method to be easier and more efficient. We are going to use the washing machine! If your washing machine is able to run ONLY the spin cycle, you are in for a treat! Keep reading to learn how to use this function to transform your blocking process. I think you will like it a lot better than the traditional method.
The photos in this article demonstrate blocking knit hats, but the methods apply to other projects, too.
This blocking method has worked for me with knitting, crochet, and weaving projects. I will primarily refer to knitting, but this method works equally well for crochet and weaving. Just sub in your craft of choice.
I have used this method for blocking super wash wool, non-super wash wool, cashmere, cotton, and everything in between.
What You’ll Need
- Bucket, Bowl, or Sink
- Wool Wash
- Water
- Washing Machine with a Spin Cycle Only function
- A surface to spread out your knitting to dry
How to Block Knitting Using a Washing Machine Spin Cycle
(Details follow.)
- Soak knitted item in lukewarm water with a little wool wash.
- Squeeze out water with your washing machine’s Spin Cycle Only function.
- Lay flat on blocking mats and shape to the schematic.
- Allow to dry full before removing.
Step 1: Soak Your Knitting
The first step of blocking your knitting is to soak the finished knitted piece in water and a little wool wash.
Select Your Vessel: Bucket or Bowl
To get the full benefits of the washing machine method, I recommend using a dedicated vessel, like a bucket or bowl. My bucket is ONLY used for blocking, and it’s great! If I’m blocking something really small, like a gauge swatch or baby hat, I’ll use a smaller bowl instead.
By using a separate container, I’m keeping my knits out of the sink or bathtub (ew!). And I can use the container to transfer the wet knitting to the washing machine without picking it up and risking the weight of the water stretching out the item.
Add a little wool wash
Soak is my favorite wool wash for blocking. It doesn’t need to be rinsed out, which prevents you from over agitating your knitted item. And the scents are fabulous!
This may seem like a niche item, but Wirecutter recommends it for washing all kinds of delicates. I use it for bras, my daughter’s stuffed animal that I don’t want to get worn out in the wash, and anything else that I’m handwashing. And I use the same process for ALL of these delicates things as I do for my knits (except the pinning out part).
If you haven’t tried Soak yet, this is your sign!
Add Water in the Temperature of Your Choice
The temperature of the water is up to you based on what you’re trying to accomplish. Warm or even hot water is acceptable, but if you’re worried about color bleeding, cool water is best. When in doubt, refer to your yarn label.
Soak for At Least 15 Minutes
Add your item to the water and gently submerge it. You’ll want to soak your project for at least 15 minutes. This ensures that the wool is fully saturated with water and has a chance to rest, which helps to even out stitches. Soaking for longer is fine, too, it won’t hurt anything.
Step 2: Squeeze Out Water
After soaking your project, you’ll need to remove the excess water before laying it out to dry. This is where you can significantly improve the blocking process by using your washing machine!
Pour Out the Water
If your item is soaking in a container like a bucket or bowl, simply tilt the container to pour out the water while keeping the knitted item in the bowl/bucket. There’s no need to squeeze more water out of the item. The washing machine is going to do it for you!
Transfer to the Washing Machine
Gently pour the wet knitted item from the bucket into the empty washing machine drum without allowing the weight of the water to stretch your knitted piece.
Set the Washing Machine to Spin Only
Set your washing machine to run the spin cycle ONLY.
This is the part of the washing machine cycle that uses centrifugal force to squeeze laundry around the side of the drum (like a salad spinner), forcing out remaining water before being moved to the dryer. It does not agitate the item, which is why it’s totally safe for your knitted items. We are going to use this function to squeeze excess water out of our wool.
This has three main benefits: excess water isn’t stretching out your knitted item when you pick it up, it’s easier to shape for blocking, and it will dry faster.
It is extremely important that ONLY the spin cycle runs. You do not want the machine to add water or agitate at all.
My washing machine lets me choose to run only the spin cycle, and I get to set the spin level. I always go with low, and I’ve never felt that higher was necessary, but I don’t think it would hurt if you don’t have a choice. Your knitted item will be plastered to the side of the washer either way.
Please note that if your washer doesn’t give you the option of spin ONLY, you’ll need to use the standard method of squeezing out excess water with a towel.
Remove Your Item from the Washing Machine
When this spin cycle is finished, take out the barely damp project. The spin cycle is able to extract so much more water than rolling your project in a towel, and this is key for the next step.
Step 3: Shape Project to Dry
The final step is to lay out your project in the desired shape to dry. Because you used the spin cycle to extract as much water as possible, it will be easier to pin into the desired shape, and it will dry much faster.
Use Blocking Mats or a clean towel and pins
Lay out the item on a surface where it can stay until it’s dry, like a blocking mat, also known as blocking boards, or a towel.
At a minimum, you will want to use a measuring tape to get your item to the right dimensions. For extra insurance, you can use pins to hold the knitted item to the correct measurements on the blocking surface.
To make the shaping even easier, I HIGHLY recommend using knit blocking mats with grid lines and knit blockers. I absolutely love them. The inch grid lines make it so much easier to pin your item to the right measurements.
(P.S. Discovering gridded blocking mats was a revelation. Discover more of my game-changing notions.)
Knit blockers are like several t-pins held together in a straight line. They help to get crisp, straight edges when blocking hems or straight borders. My set of blocking mats included knit blockers, too. You can also use a combination of t-pins and blocking wires. If you’re blocking socks, use sock blockers instead.
Refer to your knitting pattern’s schematic or measurements section to find the important measurements of your finished project. Garments tend to have several dimensions you need to match, accessories may only have one or two important dimentions. Be sure to follow the measurements for the size you made, and adjust accordingly if your gauge is different from the pattern. Pin your finished item to match these dimensions.
Allow the item to Dry Fully
Then leave your project out to dry completely. Keep it flat and undisturbed.
If you’d like, you can turn on a fan to speed up the process even more. Once dry, remove the pins.
Congratulations! Your item is officially blocked!
When to use this method (and when not to)
This method has worked for me on everything I’ve tried so far – all yarns, including non-super wash, stuffed animals, delicate heirloom baby clothes, you name it. I call for it in each of my knitting patterns.
However, you may choose to use the old-fashioned hand squeezing method on items that are especially delicate or heavy.
- Knits with fragile seaming or embellishments – If your project includes sewn-on elements, beads, embroidery, or fragile seaming that could stretch or snag, hand-squeeze and lay flat to dry instead.
- Precious heirlooms – If this is your first time working with a specific yarn, or if the piece is irreplaceable, play it safe with traditional methods to avoid unexpected outcomes.
- Heavy items – I have a full-size double knit blanket that might be too heavy for this to go well. I’ll report back if I try it. You want to make sure that your knitted item(s) can remain plastered against the side of the washing machine drum to prevent any agitation, which could encourage felting.
Final Thoughts on Blocking Knitting the Easy Way
Block your knitting! I promise you’ll feel better about all of the work you put into your knitting when the stitches are all evened out.
For more knitting advice, see my Purls of Wisdom post.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you need to block after every wash?
The first block is the most important. If you need to wash your item in the future, you can simply “reshape and lay flat to dry” just like the clothing labels state on your commercial sweaters.
Can Blocking Help an Item Grow or Shrink?
When you pin out your piece to the desired measurements, you can stretch it or squish it into place as needed. However, the yarn and the size of the project will have a lot to do with whether those dimensions hold.
For instance, superwash wool yarn tends to grow with gravity, so projects that hang (think sweaters, shawls, etc.) will stretch in that direction.
The heavier the project, the more growth there will be. In my experience, I have seen projects both growth and shrink with blocking.
What Happens if You Don’t Block Your Knitting?
Unblocked items tend to remain looking less professional than items that have been blocked. It’s as if the item is still in progress, or like it’s just a random craft. For some items, blocking isn’t 100% necessary (hats and socks come to mind), but blocking can still smooth the fabric, even out gauge, and bloom the yarn.
Can you block knitting in the washing machine?
Blocking is a multi-step process. You can use the washing machine for squeezing out the water used to soak the item.
Do I have to soak my knitting to block it?
Soaking your knitting gives the truest blocking result if you plan to wash your item in the future.
For items that you do not plan to wash, steam blocking is another great option. Use a garment steamer or the steam function on an iron to saturate the yarn, shape the item, and let it dry.
What yarns can be blocked with the spin cycle?
I’ve had good results with both superwash and non-superwash animal and plant fibers.
Is blocking necessary for superwash wool?
I think so if you plan to ever wash the item in the future. I also think it’s important for making the item look finished and more professional. But if you never plan to wash the item in the future, steam blocking is a great alternative.
How long does the drying process Take after using the spin cycle?
I soak, spin, and pin out an item in the evening and let it dry overnight. For a heavier weight item, it might need a full 24 hours.
